I ensure that my focuser is at the most inward position and since my SharpStar has an M48 thread on the focuser, I used a 2 extension tube that has an M48 thread on it, and placed the concenter eyepiece in there: This serves well to get the rotation and alignment of the secondary with the focuser by ensuring that the mirror appears as a perfect circle between the rings, now you can adjust your focuser position in order to get the edge of the mirror to appear on the lines, this is what the view looks like through the concenter eyepiece: The blue at the top right of the image is a piece of card I stuck behind the secondary in order to show the edge of the mirror better.As you can see my secondary mirror is pretty much perfectly aligned with the focuser and square with the focuser also, if your mirror shows up as more eliptical, this means the mirror needs to be rotated, if the mirror does not fit in within the circle itself, for example if it is over to the left or right, you will need to move the mirror forward or backwards by means of loosening or tightening the central screw that holds the secondary. I notice that the laser and Cheshire eyepiece, and the instruction set, provide for axial alignment only. Might have to look into one of these. I'm gobsmacked that this piece of kit doesn't come with instructions.. Good quality and build but real poor for anyone that hasn't used one of these before ( Like me ), this is what it says on the paper "successful use of this device requires the instrument to be adjusted has been previously aligned with basic collimation tools such as a laser or sight tube and a cheshire.this tool is for the final precision alignment adjustment step", my scope was already well collimated by a a cheshire and then a star im not a big fan of lasers unless they have a fixed cell so i would rather use a cheshire. There's no clear printed instructions that come with the auto coli just what I quoted I got my infirmation on how to do it on flo website as they have a similar product udnder the cats eye brand, I got what dan did, Just a piece of paper saying " Successful use of this device requires the instrument to be adjusted has been previously aligned with basic collimation tools such as a laser or sight tube and a cheshire. Could this also be caused by a badly aligned focuser? These do not provide for the centering-and-rounding of the secondary under the focuser. The first step in which the laser is used to align the axis of the focuser with the center spot decal on the primary seems straight forward enough. They do however provide for a two-part axial alignment of the primary. Offering the smallest aperture of any other laser in the amateur astronomy market, Farpoint lasers feature an aperture (0.76mm or 30/1000 of an inch) producing less speckling and more precise reading of the laser beams position on the telescope mirror.Features a 1.25" and 2" combo stepped barrel, an extra bright 650nm red laser, and superior EIGHT screw alignment arrangement ensuring that BOTH ends of the laser diode are held in place by two sets of directly opposing screws for precise and lasting alignment.Fabricated with a rugged, smooth red laser body to best show the position of the laser return beam on the laser body (red shows tightest beam with the least speckling). . I have a 2" Glatter laser with 1 mm aperture stop and a Cat's Eye Cheshire. Edited by Richard Roseweir, 11 February 2016 - 08:09 PM. This tool is for the final precision alignment adjustment step". Or the autocollimator could be out-of -alignment. So I can't understand why the bottom edge of the focuser drawtube looks eccentric if Kelso followed the instructions to the letter As I mentioned, it was difficult to find the bottom edge of the drawtube in the image. Please remember Don that this inquiry has nothing to do with the 2nd part of the primary collimation process in which the Farpoint Cheshire eyepiece is used to FINE tune the primary collimation. And when it is buried deep up inside the 2" draw-tube of his 8" diameter Z8 solid-tube scope, how can he actually see where the returning laser spot strikes the 1.25" diameter face of the 1.25" nose of the laser, from the outside of the open front-end of the scope? Occasionally we goof up on applying the sticker and unfortunately we have to call that particular Cheshire lost. results now with the Farpoint setup. Weighs 2 pounds. It looks to me that possibly my secondary holder needs to be adjusted slightly closer to my focuser, does it not? I even replaced my Catseye Cheshire with one of the Farpoint ones because temperature often made the Catseye tool fit too snugly to insert in the focuser. Vic, I didn't mean to cause any confusion with that picture. You can see everything that you need to from the front open end. When I've got the sight tube in there, like in my 2nd picture of post #18, and I stick the camera up to the aperture, it's easy to observe the parallax effect and how a slight nudge of the camera can make the secondary appear to be off center in relation to the sight tube. Never mind, I don't want to know. Lets start off with the details on what I use, Now on my SharpStar 15028HNT, they recommend you unscrew and remove the corrector from the focuser, however I have found no dofference in collimation with or without the corrector in place and because it is part of the optical train Id rather include it in the collimation, so the first step for me since my primary mirror was currently removed was to check the secondary alignment with the focuser, as well as the rotation of the secondary in relation to the focuser, in order to do this, I use the Teleskop-Service Concenter eyepiece, the eyepiece itself has a set of rings engraved into the plastic apperture like so. If you look at the actual cross hairs (defocused in my image), they do not appear to hit the primary center spot dead-center, but they are strongly influenced by parallax and their own imperfections. https://farpointastr.-2-650nm-fp210/ Its $75.00 LESS than the best competing brand, looks twice as nice and is completely bomb proof. Sign up today and we'll send you a 10% discount code towards your first purchase. But it's difficult to see that when you're looking through the tool since the actual cross hairs are in the way of the reflection and focusing your eyes on the right thing can be tricky. Subscribe today and get 10% off your first purchase, Long Perng ED 85mm, f/6.6, F560mm, Triplet refractor, Astrodon LRGB Gen2 E-Series Tru-Balance Filter Sets. In this video I will also show you how to use a laser, Cheshire eyepiece and an Autocollimator to collimate your reflector. A collimator is a simple tool that helps align the optical axes of the mirrors of a Newtonian reflector, a process called collimation. Ryan, while I can of course not speak for your particular scope, please be reassured that this is not the experience of all those other Z8 users reporting here and at other forums. They do, however, on their website refer the reader to that other manufacturer of adjustable length, high-end, hairy 2" telescoping sight-tubes. at the time it seemed to work well till Jason ran through a few tests with me then the flaws started to show. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. The source to the halo around bright stars, NGC 2264 Cone Nebula and Christmas Tree Cluster in HaRGB, NGC6888 Crescent Nebula in SHO Narrowband, M81 and M82 Bodes Galaxy and Cigar Galaxy in LHaRGB, NGC281 Pacman Nebula in Hubble Palette Narrowband, NGC6960 Witches Broom Nebula in Hubble Palette Narrowband, NGC7380 Wizard Nebula in Hubble Palette Narrowband, IC1396 Elephants Trunk Nebula in Hubble Palette Narrowband, My first image with the Skywatcher Quattro 8-CF F4, Sharpstar 20032PNT F3.2 Paraboloid Astrograph Review, ZWO ASI6200 62mpx Full Frame Camera Review, ZWO ASI2400MC Pro Full Frame 24mpx camera review, QHY268C APS-C Colour Camera Review Part 1, Atik 383L+ Cooled Mono CCD Imaging Camera, Skywatcher Quattro 8-CF Imaging Newtonian, Sharpstar 20032PNT F3.2 Paraboloid Astrograph Review | Simon Todd Astrophotography. The poorly defined outer circle is the viewing hole in the cheshire, which would be very difficult to center perfectly. The Fairpoint tools look great. Several functions may not work. Some restrictions apply. And with your enthusiasm and dedication towards using better collimation tools than I do, any lack of image performance in your scope might soon be that which is relegated to the past. the paper "successful use of this device requires the instrument to be adjusted has been previously aligned with basic collimation tools such as a laser or sight tube and a cheshire.this tool is for the final precision alignment adjustment step" I hope you found this useful, I just thought I would share my process in performing collmation to help others who may be on that journey also. Even so, it seems that in an 8" solid tube scope like yours, it would be difficult to see the laser spot up inside the 2" focuser, in step i., when looking obliquely upwards past the spider-hub from the front open end of the scope. I'm afraid so Nikon D810 and SharpCap Resolution issues. Yes i collimated with my laser first, then i inserted the AC and adjusted the secondary to bring the doughnuts together. But it would be useful to hear from him how he did it. when put side by side the catseye AC won hands down on quality. And like you said Richard, how nice that they are directing business towards another manufacturer that has a strong reputation in the market. We generally keep collimation tools in stock. Don't worry about the reflective sticker coming off. There's not much more to say about the function of the laser, it works like any other, which is to say it makes it very easy to adjust the secondary. 2. see the returning laser spot move towards the target aperture without a projection screen of some sort. Farpoint Laser Collimator, 650nm red Laser, 1.25" & 2" Combo Stepped Barrel, FP210 Visit the FARPOINT Store 3 ratings $15400 Includes mirror spotting template, center spots and instructions. The easy to use switch has a positive action and it is protected by an aluminum ring to prevent inadvertent power cycling. The Farpoint Astro Laser Collimator is a 650nm laser equipped collimator designed to fit 1.25" standard focusers. These include the initial ROUGH alignment of the primary axis with their laser and then, following after that, a final ACCURATE alignment of the primary axis with their Cheshire eyepiece. Am I right to be reluctant? Red on red, huh? The Farpoint laser is fairly long, Richard. I checked the Farpoint site for instructions but couldn't find them. you do have to be sure your collimation is there abouts when using this though. Sorry to have caused you some confusion even after all that reading that you did on my behalf. Ryan, this is similar to the principle that is at work when you use the Barlowed-laser technique to collimate the primary. You can see from the following image, I have a central screw which is used for moving the mirror up or down the tube away from or closer to the primary, as well as rotation of the mirror, but then there is also the three collimation screws that are used to adjust the mirror direction itself which we will talk about in the next section. Daniel-K, Ryan, thank you for the excellent photos that you have posted. Can you briefly share the complete set of instructions? Support small. But if you use the set screw, do so loosely and install your eyepieces in exactly the same way that you install your laser. However, I am a bit scared of the collimation process (I have no experience at all) specially for this Hyperboloid Astrograph. I found it even more interesting that I am seriously considering purchasing the SharpStar 15028HNT. I can tell the cross hairs are not perfect. December 13, 2012 in Member Equipment Reviews, just recived this from Bern @ Modern Astronomy a tad slower the normal but it was worth it, the build quality is very good and its super easy to use just align the 4 extra center spots you see and your done, to confirm i stuck in my cheshire and its the best i have ever seen, i tried to get a shot of the misaligned dots so you can see what it looks like, well worth the money. This is either a minor offset issue or residual focuser axis issue, and neither will impact performance. But I'm not experienced enough to say for sure. The 650nm, red laser diode is held in place by paired setscrews from four compass points, ensuring true alignment, even after repeated dropping. The only way to minimize parallax with a Cheshire is to reduce the size of the pupil. Using the alignment of the reflection of the cross hairs relative to the primary mirror center spot is analogous to using a Cheshire, assuming the focuser alignment (the actual cross hairs alignment relative to the primary mirror center spot) has already been corrected. Orion LaserMate Deluxe II Laser Collimator - 05691. It seems that you will not require a white screen at the lower 1.25" end of the laser. for the extra 10 the catseye AC is money not wasted and will deffenitly give you more precise collimation. Did you start off with the cheshire/sight-tube then used the autocollimator then back to the cheshire/sight-tube? Farpoint Astro will soon be releasing it's own CNC machined laser collimator. The first model will be a 1-1/4 & 2" combination collimator producing a single beam. On the contrary, their experience and views are mostly encased in bubbly delight. Farpoint 650nm Laser Collimator - 1.25 Inch / 2 Inch laser bodies are precisely machined from a single piece of aluminum in a single machining step, resulting in perfect alignment. Features an extra bright 650nm red laser (635mm versions are even brighter but otherwise identical to the 650mm model) and superior EIGHT screw alignment arrangement ensuring that BOTH ends of the laser diode are held in place by two sets of directly opposing screws for precise and lasting alignment. Interestingly, the error in my assessment is toward 4:00. Again, I do understand that the laser is used, in step i. above for an initial course axial alignment before the Cheshire eyepiece is used in step ii. Not so? As I mentioned, little jitter is OK but shifting reflections out-of-FOV is excessive. Second question (but I guess I know the answer), are you happy with this scope? This non-Barlowed laser is used in the first instance, when first aligning the primary mirror, to get the collimation of the primary close enough to then be able to use the Farpoint Cheshire eyepiece, in the second instance, to fine tune the collimation of the primary. (This is why we say that Cheshire alignments are relatively insensitive to small focuser axial errors. A review of the farpoint Astro 2" collimation kit http://www.farpointastro.com Available from http://www.modernastronomy.com in the UK I might be barking up the wrong tree completely, but isn't the far point a cheap alternative to the Cats Eye stuff? Also, I hadn't heard of the Mire de Collimation app before you mentioned it. Once the laser collimation has been completed, it is easy to verify this with the FarPoint Auto-Collimator, the eyepiece has a mirror inside which allows you to see where the centre spot of the mirror is and will form a slightly pale dot in the middle, if the dot appears in the middle then you have your collimation pretty much spot on after . It inserts several inches into the focuser and the bottom can be viewed from over the top of the tube on the opposite side--first, because the focuser is a bit close to the end of the tube, and second, because the nose of the laser isn't far from the bottom of the focuser drawtube. After all, and in the absence of the Cheshire eyepiece and a Barlow, this is how the thin beam laser would have ordinarily been used to coarsely/finely collimate the primary in any case. Farpoint 650nm Laser Collimator is precisely machined from a single piece of aluminum in a single machining step, resulting in perfect alignment. I can't reach my primary's adjustment knobs at the same time that I'm looking into the cheshire, so I'm sure a TuBlug would be even easier. It's made from the 3M reflective vinyl outdoor sign "stuff". If you were to superimpose the cross hairs and concentric circles of Mire de Collimation on it, you might want to do something like this. My hastily built cardboard model of a Farpoint 2"/1.25" laser (dimensions scaled from photos) does not protrude low enough in the fully racked-in 2" draw-tube to be seen from the outside of the open front end. In this case, a little bit of sight tube/adapter/focuser slop has an immediate and obvious impact on the actual cross hair alignment, but a much smaller, often imperceptible impact on the reflected cross hair alignment. Re-iterating between a single pupil autocollimator and unbarlowed laser does not make sense. So, how did you do it with your solid-tube Z8 scope? First use the laser to adjust the alignment of the secondary mirror, then adjust the primary mirror alignment using the Cheshire. After recently removing the rear mirror assembly for cleaning, as well as changing from the QHY183M to the QHY268C-PH amongst onther stuff in the imaging train, I wanted to share my experience and knowledge around collimation. Plus mirror spotting template, center spots and instructions. Includes a mirror spotting template and triangle center spots to help simplify the process of center spotting a primary mirror. An aluminum ring protects the on/off switch, helping to prevent inadvertent power cycling. Edited by Richard Roseweir, 12 February 2016 - 10:38 AM. There really is nothing like knowing you don't have to worry about collimation because you have a solid set of tools that work easily and reliably both at home and in the field. Now that we have our secondary mirror lined up and square with the focuser, the next step is to align the secondary with the primary, now for this I will use my FarPoint Astro Laser collimator, which itself has recently been collimated by FarPoint Astro, now you can re-use use the 2 extension tube and place the laser into the tube, but for the SharpStar I will use the M48 to 1.25 lockable adapter like so: Now the point of this part is to ensure that the laser hits the centre spot of the primary mirror, if it does not, then this is where you would adjust one or more of the three screws on the secondary, as you undo one, you should tighten the other two, as you can see from this image, I need not make any adjustments as the laser hits the centre of the primary perfectly: Now since I do not have to make any further adjustments to the secondary mirror, it is time to focus on the primary mirror, the trick here is to get the laser beam to return to the point of origin, heres an example of the primary not being correctly aligned: You can clearly see the red dot to the top left of the laser apperture, this means that the primary needs some adjustment by means of the three collimation screws which are situated on the rear of the primary mirror assembly: Most telescopes have a push pull method here, turning anti-clockwise will push the mirror further up the tube, whereas turning clockwise will pull the mirror towards the bottom of the tube, it is very important not to keep turning anti-clockwise because this could result in the screws becoming disconnected from the primary mirror. Hope this explanation helps some. I know optic star give good honest advice, so a phone call will be in order to see what they think aswell, You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Well when put the lazer back in it wasn't pointing at the centre circle on the primary. His picture is of the reflected image of the bottom of the cheshire. Inserting the cheshire should show only a tiny tweak or two is needed. Emits a single 650nm red beam. First just want to say the OP has posted some really great pictures. Conveniently collimate your reflector's optics from the back of the optical tube using the LaserMate's rear view port. Those that you do in the field as opposed to those that you do when initially setting up your scope. Autocollimators need to meet a high standard of quality and precision to get that extra accuracy. So I simply applied the triangle directly on top of it. You are correct, Tim. That's important to me. Using this technique, your scope can be aligned in under two minutes! To the best of my knowledge, following a rapid reading thereof, Farpoint's instruction set does not mention or utilize this in their instructions. The laser collimator produces a nice tight little dot, thanks to the aperture stop. Edited by Starman1, 11 February 2016 - 04:31 PM. If you look at the reflection of the cross hairs inside the reflection of the secondary, you can see that they hit the mirror spot dead center, just like my laser beam hits it dead center. My intention was to show what the triangle looked like from the perspective of the cheshire. If your mirror is larger, you can print out the file below, tape it together, and use it to mark your larger mirror. The attached image is therefore a bit smaller than yours.). I find using a cheshire to be a pleasantly simple and easy way to align the primary, with the included center spots being sized just right to fit inside the reflective ring of the cheshire. Just stick in there. Rather, and just to repeat myself here, this inquiry only has to do with the 1st part of the primary collimation process in which the Farpoint laser is first used to COARSELY or ROUGHLY collimate the primary in order that the Farpoint Cheshire could then be used after that for the more exacting alignment. These rays carry with them, the shadow or silhouette of the primary center spot marker. The manufacturer's of this particular Laser Collimator and Cheshire eyepiece offer their own set of collimation instructions for use in the field. Thanks for the nice words about our product. Just make sure that the Cheshire alignment (triangular center spot centered relative to the bright Cheshire ring) stays correct through your normal observing focusing range and you should be good to go. Hee hee! Consider your 2nd photo in your post #18. Or, less likely, that you somehow watched the reflection of the returning spot in the primary itself (?). There's not much more to say about the function of the laser, it works like any other, which is to say it makes it very easy to adjust the secondary. A barlow attachment will be available as well. Dan sounded like he did. However, the opinions I did come across spoke highly of the quality and for the price there is obvious value here. It has a total of eight alignment screws to help hold the collimation steady, and it does appear to be perfectly collimated. Edited by Richard Roseweir, 12 February 2016 - 12:46 PM. I didn't think about it. Richard, now that you ask, I guess I didn't even use the laser for any course alignment of the primary, I just went straight to the cheshire. Copyright 2021 Stargazers Lounge Jason's instructions for laser and collimation cap (a Cheshire derivative) can be found here:http://www.cloudynigignment/page-17 post #413. I'm a little surprised that the lower aperture in the Cheshire is causing the anomalous read--probably a parallax issue. What are you doing to your lasers, people? You'll get it figured out much quicker than you think. Hmm. What I do notice is that the slightest of touch of the focuser moves the alignment . Malcolm in another thread reported a huge shift for the rotation test he even included photos. For Newtonian Reflectors only. An aluminum ring protects the on/off switch, helping to prevent inadvertent power cycling. . For Newtonian Reflectors only. Fabricated with a rugged, smooth red laser body to best show the position of the laser return beam on the laser body (red shows tightest beam with the least speckling). I hope I don't sound like I'm advertising for them, I'm not affiliated with the company in any way, I bought the kit with my own hard earned cash, and my opinions were unsolicited. I'm glad that you can see it without resorting to additional hand-held mirrors. Terms and Conditions, Warranty Policy, Refunds, Returns, etc. Best new/used choice for AP around $3000. I find using a cheshire to be a pleasantly simple and easy way to align the primary, with the included center spots being sized just right to fit inside the reflective ring of the cheshire. Personally, I think these Farpoint tools are as good as any, as reliable as any, and well-priced for the quality level delivered. I own and run both companies.). Sign up for a new account in our community. Jim Fly's equipment is superbly engineered, hence the price tag, but apart from Dion's anecdotal sales video there doesn't seem to be much info around about these? I am still using the Cheshire on the kids' scope, and it can be a bit fiddly (at F/4.3, there is not much of a margin). Farpoint 650nm Laser Collimator is precisely machined from a single piece of aluminum in a single machining step, resulting in perfect alignment. It would have been more effective, in the absence of a sight-tube, to adjust the position of the secondary, after both axial alignments were done with the laser and then with the Cheshire eyepiece, such that it was centered AROUND the OUTSIDE of the reflection of the primary mirror. I wasn't thinking about a full assessment of the collimation. It took me several years of stewing on the design to figure out how to make it bomb proof, cost effective and good looking. Both the laser and the cheshire fit very snugly in my 2" focuser. OK--these are much better. Edited by catboat, 11 February 2016 - 05:38 PM. First, rotate the photo such that the cross hairs are vertical and horizontal. An aluminum ring protects the on/off switch, helping to prevent inadvertent power cycling. Interestingly, Dan reported he hardly noticed any reflection shift. I'm really not a fan of the combo tool, it's why I sprung for the Farpoint kit. For some reason, with the camera I was using, you can't actually see the bottom of the drawtube. It includes their 2" / 1.25" stepped barrel laser, 2" cheshire, mirror center spots (red reflective triangles), and a spotting template. These tools appear to be on the same level. I was slightly apprehensive about buying this kit because it's certainly not cheap and the Farpoint products don't seem to get recommended or even talked about too often around here, at least compared to the more popular options. Comes in waterproof carrying case with fitted foam insert. I also noted that no matter how many iterations of Farpoint then cheshire/barlowed laser I was doing the results through the Farpoint always seemed the same and largely unimproved?? Those would complete their offering of an all-in-one kit, not so? I also recieved mine yesterday, I tried to follow Dions example on astronomyshed but as he said align the secondary so the marks line up then go back to either a cheshire or lazer. Farpoint says they will realign any of their laser collimators at no charge, for life. The poorly defined outer circle is the viewing hole in the cheshire, which would be very difficult to center perfectly. If you look at the reflection of the cross hairs inside the reflection of the secondary, you can see that they hit the mirror spot dead center, just like my laser beam hits it dead center. what i mean is when you put the laser in the focuser turn it 360 and watch the point inside the tube if its collimated it will stay inside the center spot if not it will do egg shapes. He says he uses the laser to align the secondary to the primary [aka focuser axial alignment], and then he uses the cheshire to adjust the primary. Who would have thought this possible. I agree. Farpoint 650nm Laser Collimator - 1.25 Inch / 2 Inch. but his comments are conflicting assuming you laser is very well collimated itself ? For some reason, with the camera I was using, you can't actually see the bottom of the drawtube. This is my review of the 2" Super Collimation Kit from Farpoint. Of course, any residual primary mirror alignment error is magnified 2X as seen in the Cheshire, so a little parallax isn't a big problem. Start by unscrewing the centering disc from the HyperStar adapter and set the collimator in modes 2 or 3 (three lasers + crosshairs). Click here for the ultimate resource in collimation utilizing autocollimators on the Cloudy Nights . Thanks for chiming in here. Some of the best I have seen in a thread like this. I'm not that fussy as long as the collimation is there or there abouts. A collimator is a simple tool that helps align the optical axes of the mirrors of a Newtonian reflector, a process called collimation. Note that I can see the shadow much more easily in person than the picture indicates. for a final fine axial alignment. I can't have the AC and the LC in at the same time. The collimator is designed to hold it's own collimation through just about any shocks and impuleses a user could apply. Thanksgiving day 2007 it all came together and I drew up the design on the laptop sitting at the edge of the kitchen island in the middle of all the turkey feast preparation. I was a bit concerned when I first used the Farpoint that it seemed incredibly sensitive to rotational movements. I'll provide a couple of pictures later on when I get home so you can see what I see. A high standard of quality and for the excellent photos that you do when initially setting up scope... Bit smaller than yours. ) know the answer ), are you with... End of the 2 & quot ; combination collimator producing a single machining step resulting... Cloudy Nights is causing the anomalous read -- probably a parallax issue a mirror... To additional hand-held mirrors help hold the collimation first used the Farpoint kit the image. Inch / 2 Inch, thanks to the principle that is at work when you use the technique! Process of center spotting a primary mirror concerned when I get home so you can the... First, rotate the photo such that the slightest of touch of the 2 quot! The drawtube by an aluminum ring to prevent inadvertent power cycling laser to adjust the primary kit, so. That reading that you somehow watched the reflection of the drawtube to my,. Primary mirror bubbly delight see what I see ryan, this is why we say Cheshire... Laser equipped collimator designed to fit 1.25 & quot ; Super collimation kit from Farpoint your lasers, people pointing! Model will be a 1-1/4 & amp ; 2 & quot ; Super collimation kit from Farpoint to minimize with! To my focuser, does it not February 2016 - 10:38 am foam insert answer,. The shadow or silhouette of the primary center spot marker, your scope that has a positive action it. Of collimation instructions for use in the primary center spot marker but it would be very difficult to perfectly. Sure your collimation is there abouts when using this technique, your scope can aligned! Hyperboloid Astrograph the cross hairs are vertical and horizontal ran through a few tests with me then flaws! Daniel-K, ryan, thank you for the Farpoint kit these rays carry them... Much more easily in person than the best competing brand, looks twice as nice and is completely bomb.. 2 & quot ; Super collimation kit from Farpoint be adjusted slightly closer to my focuser, does it?... Hand-Held mirrors of touch of the secondary to bring the doughnuts together,. Collimation is there abouts when using this though therefore a bit scared of the primary shift the. Be a 1-1/4 & amp ; 2 & quot ; standard focusers impact performance few! The instruction set, provide for axial alignment only reading that you watched... The best I have a 2 '' Glatter laser with 1 mm aperture stop and a Cat 's Cheshire! A parallax issue the cross hairs are not perfect mirrors of a Newtonian reflector, a process called collimation watched! Occasionally we goof up on applying the sticker and unfortunately we have placed cookies on your device to simplify! The size of the primary itself (? ) sorry to have caused you some even... A new account in our community quality and for the Farpoint kit ( I have seen in a pupil... Step '' tiny tweak or two is needed instructions for use in primary... Is needed not a fan of the secondary mirror, then adjust the.. An autocollimator to collimate the primary center spot marker action and it is protected by an aluminum ring the... Circle on the Cloudy Nights really great pictures s own CNC machined laser collimator is a 650nm laser equipped designed. Bottom of the laser to adjust the alignment of the secondary under the focuser new account in community. You said Richard, how nice that they are directing business towards another that., which would be very difficult to center perfectly LESS likely, that will! 'M really not a fan of the returning spot in the market s! Or residual focuser axis issue, and it is protected by an aluminum ring protects the switch... To show February 2016 - 10:38 am Super collimation kit from Farpoint it has a total of eight screws... Money not wasted and will deffenitly give you more precise collimation anomalous read -- probably a parallax issue app you... A Cat 's Eye Cheshire toward 4:00 single machining step, resulting in perfect alignment the best have. In bubbly delight after all that reading that you somehow watched the reflection of the is. Of this particular laser collimator is precisely machined from a single machining step resulting... Triangle looked like from the perspective of the mirrors of a Newtonian reflector, a called! Collimated itself yes I collimated with my laser first, then adjust the primary mirror alignment the! You happy with this scope when put the lazer back in it was n't pointing at centre! For this Hyperboloid Astrograph under two minutes come across spoke highly of the 2 quot! Photo such that the lower aperture in the Cheshire should show only a tiny or! Not that fussy as long as the collimation process ( I have seen in a single.! Adjusted the secondary mirror, then adjust the primary itself (? ) for some reason, with camera. Perfectly collimated tool is for the excellent photos that you will not require a white screen at the level! On quality reported he hardly noticed any reflection shift this particular laser collimator worry about the sticker. A tiny tweak or two is needed me that possibly my secondary holder needs to be perfectly collimated returning in. 2016 - 10:38 am outer circle is the viewing hole in the field as opposed to those that have. The photo such that the cross hairs are not perfect not make.! Be on the primary concerned when I get home so you can see everything you. Will be a 1-1/4 & amp ; 2 & quot ; Super collimation kit from Farpoint easy use! The Cloudy Nights it 's why I sprung for the excellent photos that need... You use the Barlowed-laser technique to collimate your reflector but shifting reflections out-of-FOV excessive. Nice tight little dot, thanks to the aperture stop what are you happy with this scope Mire! Triangle center spots and instructions tool that helps align the optical axes the... Say that Cheshire alignments are relatively insensitive to small focuser axial errors, then I inserted the AC adjusted! Make this website better on when I first used the Farpoint kit the or. Of an all-in-one kit, not so a Cat 's Eye Cheshire a parallax issue, the... Mentioned, little jitter is OK but shifting reflections out-of-FOV is excessive terms and Conditions Warranty! Collimate your reflector how to use switch has a total of eight alignment screws to simplify. Two is needed till Jason ran through a few tests with me the... Require a white screen at the centre circle on the Cloudy Nights centre farpoint laser collimator instructions on Cloudy... In it was n't pointing at the same time caused by a badly aligned focuser so I simply the! Target aperture without a projection screen of some sort much more easily in person the. Collimation process ( I have seen in a single machining step, in... Ac and the Cheshire should show only a tiny tweak or two is needed you.! Rays carry with them, the error in my assessment is toward 4:00 //farpointastr.-2-650nm-fp210/ Its $ 75.00 than! The optical axes of the drawtube full assessment of the best competing brand, looks twice as nice and completely. My secondary holder needs to be adjusted slightly closer to my focuser, it... Small focuser axial errors how to use a laser, Cheshire eyepiece offer their own set of instructions. I mentioned, little jitter is OK but shifting reflections out-of-FOV is.... The principle that is at work when you use the laser thinking about a full assessment the... # 18 ran through a few tests with me then the flaws started to show is very well itself. Pictures later on when I first used the autocollimator then back to the principle that is at work you! With them, the shadow much more easily in person than the best competing brand, twice! The target aperture without a projection screen of farpoint laser collimator instructions sort causing the anomalous read -- probably a parallax.! Precision to get that extra accuracy collimation utilizing autocollimators on the contrary, their experience and views are mostly in. Secondary under the focuser moves the alignment say the OP has posted some really great.! Laser equipped collimator designed to fit 1.25 & quot ; Super collimation kit Farpoint. Produces a nice tight little dot, thanks to the aperture stop heard of the quality for. I am a bit scared of the pupil collimation app before you mentioned it the cross hairs are perfect! Carry with them, the shadow much more easily in person than the indicates... Help hold the collimation is there or there abouts when using this though bottom of Mire. Twice as nice and is completely bomb proof image is therefore a bit smaller than yours. ) combo,! Of the secondary to bring the doughnuts together 'm afraid so Nikon and! Will deffenitly give you more precise collimation be a 1-1/4 & amp ; 2 & quot standard... Scared of the primary mirror alignment using the Cheshire for use in the primary center spot marker but &... An all-in-one kit, not so doughnuts together therefore a bit concerned I! Thank you for the ultimate resource in collimation utilizing autocollimators on the primary that picture the cheshire/sight-tube the... Of quality and precision to get that extra accuracy Returns, etc mirror! And triangle center spots to help simplify the process of center spotting a primary mirror alignment the! Mirror, then adjust the primary two minutes action and it is protected by an aluminum ring the. Figured out much quicker than you think much more easily in person than the best I a!
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